The Wine Library

If the wine at Woollahra’s Wine Library told its own story, you could sit by the bar and enjoy a tale of rocky glens, dramatic mountains, hot summer storms and frost crusted vines; of winemakers in India and growers in Barcelona. Each of the 400 wines has been carefully selected like the books of a personal library and the catalogue explains the story of seasons behind each vineyard or winemaker.

The Wine Library is a cocoon enjoyed by the unique personalities here for the boutique drops and casual-cool atmosphere. Glossy bottles line the shelves of the bar like volumes ordered by author, shining with an orange-gleam from the backlight of the bar. The syncopated jazz tunes that flow through the restaurant are punctuated by the chinks of glasses toasting the weekend’s beginning. Afternoon snacks and pre-dinner drinks are spent here as charcuterie plates are presented between elbows that rest gracefully on the generous zinc bar. The bar leads past the clear charcuterie coolroom to the low-lit dining room and the secluded outdoor oasis that beckons diners to a quiet escape of slate tiles and dappled sunlight.

Woollahra and Paddington residents drift in and out of the bar coming for an afternoon aperitif. Some order a drop that is the perfect equivalent of their identity while others dabble with alternate characters. The wine list, like a library, harbours creations from around the world. A glass of 2009 Granbazan ‘Etiqueta Ambar’ could be the equivalent of a travel novel. Its albarino grapes drawn from the coast-hugging region of Spain’s Rias Biaxas whisper dry and crisp oceanic characters, and this afternoon are enjoyed by a group of young women for after-work drinks. They’re served plates of cluttered cabernet and vinegar oysters; grappa cured ocean trout; and pork and veal meatballs dusted with parmesan and sitting in thick tomato-based sauce. The dusty old hardcover from a past century – 1989 Domaine Leroy ‘les Beaux Monts’ is shared by some old friends who’ve come to catch up on a year lost to the business of life. The Glenguin Estate’s 2007 Stoneybroke Shiraz has a smooth body with a flirtatious spice making it alike an old love story, and ordered by a pair perhaps starting their own as they toast their first date. A group of gentlemen settle down to the dark wooden tables of the dining room to explore the seasons’ influences on a region by trying a glass from each vintage - like working their way through a series. At the Wine Library, ‘quick afternoon drinks’ will meld into shared dishes and orders for a second bottle, before conceding to make a night with dessert in favour of prior plans.

Edwina Storie, October 2010

The Hideout

There is a new place to escape the afternoon bore where you can relax by the wine racks and cool gray walls of the Hideout. Red light glows from the fluorescent key holes in the top corner of the restaurant making us wish we could lock this place away to be kept as our own little secret. The open bar creates a chatty atmosphere like the casual kitchen-conversation of a dinner party. Curious Paddington residents walk in and stand in front of the huge black board wine menu, pointing to and discussing possible choices of the mostly patriotic selection. Seating and tables are shuffled around as diners come and go, some standing around the open bar while others spill the chilled atmosphere out onto the path of Five Ways.

On this late spring afternoon, fingers gracefully hold glasses of 2009 Hesketh ‘Scissor Hands’ riesling while others move onto the stronger body of the 2008 La Linea Tempranillo. Black-clad waiters slide an old wooden ladder along the restaurant to reach for a diner’s favourite drop as they walk up the stairs to lounge onto the low couches. A flirting couple at the window bench top-up their glasses with the equally flirtatious 2009 Amisfield Saignee rosé. Presented with a cheese plate featuring glossy bowls of goat’s milk fetta and billowy pillows of bocconcini, they swipe the slices of toasted almond biscotti and fruit spelt with fig paste, before layering on cuts of the brie slab. Friends who have unexpectedly bumped into each other turn their casual rendezvous into a group catch-up and eye-off the cheese platter before ordering one themselves.

Our glasses are topped up with a second serving of the 2008 Woodgate Reserve pinot noir as ‘quick pre-drinks’ turn into cured meat plates and changed plans. The Hideout fills up with locals happy for a fresh change to their favourite Friday hangout, although shortly, it may become the new one.

Edwina Storie, October 2010

Garden Brasserie - Neautral Bay

The Garden Brasserie is overgrown with effortless cool and unique style. This Neutral Bay restaurant serves modern Australian cuisine with fruity cocktails beside a glorious indoor garden.

If the garden of Eden served cocktails, its bar would be the Garden Brasserie and the forbidden fruit would be the Kyoto gardens martini. The Garden Brasserie is overgrown with effortless cool and unique style. The vertical garden which crawls up to the ceiling must inject extra oxygen and zest into the air because everything has a touch of flirtation. Split into overlapping levels, the ‘treehouse cocktail lounge’ overlooks the ‘patio’ restaurant below. The decor is a botanical concoction of natural elements such as mahogany tables and marble floors, with retro features such as the Astroturf which lines the staircase. The patio on the bottom floor bathes in natural light that filters through the glass shopfront. As you sit among the shrubbery the restaurant has an ambience alike an English summer day. As the sun sets, the birdcage enclosed lights dimly illuminate the restaurant of casual crowds who sip on smoky margaritas.

Guests don’t come here just for the detoxifying décor of the garden wall (although it is reason enough). The food carries the same earthy characters with meats complimented by delicate sauces and spiced vegetables. Start with dinner downstairs beside the glorious overgrowth. The tiger prawn risotto infused with saffron is mixed with green pea and purple basil, and is a creamy yet light starter. For main, the flavours of the roast duck breast are balanced with spinach, cherries for a subtle sweetness, and a quince tarte tatin. The well considered wine selection features worldwide and local representation. Once you have finished the last sip of your chosen bottle, climb upstairs to the treehouse cocktail lounge. Recline on the olive and mahogany French armchairs and share the restaurant's signature garden lemon tart with good company. This restaurant's botanical character will leave you feeling refreshed, and perhaps even a little sinful if you try the Kyoto gardens martini.

Edwina Storie, August 2010

... At Perry Lane

Perry Lane café, hidden behind Oxford Street, is the daytime equivalent of the perfect date-space and is made of urban cool without the ego. Smooth coffee, inspiring artwork and organic-edged dishes make it a café kept to a secret by its Paddington following. Lose your thoughts ...At Perry Lane.

…At Perry Lane is where you take last night’s date for this morning’s breakfast. It is also where you spend the day ‘working from home’ or where you take your best friend in between the hunt for vintage treasures. Muted purple walls enclose the private hideaway keeping it to a whispered secret of creatives, cappuccino connoisseurs, bookworms and young couples. A black beaded chandelier set with melted candles hangs high above the heads of the guests, and the green and pink colours of the bougainvillea tumble down from the retractable roof, scattering sunlight across the tiles. A melodic cocktail of retro lounge and jazz tunes drifts between the three split levels and makes every moment feel like a Sunday morning. Organic-edge dishes, quirky quotes, and offbeat artworks characterise the café tucked behind the limelight of Oxford Street. The tiny door down the laneway opens only on Fridays and weekends as the eager loyal following sometimes even cues up the alley when it reaches its capacity.

Today, as the fuchsia pink flowers brighten in the spring sunlight, a Paddington mother pleasantly sits enthralled in the pages of her book. Her puffy black poodle sits politely beside her feet as he is served a pup-a-cino and plate of liver flakes. Two runners satisfy a hunger from their Sunday morning slog with soy lattes and organic maple-nut wood-fired granola. Poached pink lady apple and raisins stream sweetness through the dollop of yoghurt that tops the oats. A mother and daughter duo on a break from a day’s shopping share a meze plate. They spread thick crusts of fresh bread with hommus and tzatziki, then adding prosciutto, roasted red capsicum, grilled halloumi and sundried tomatoes as they discuss the day’s purchases. Natural light streams through the skylight of the upstairs studio where guests sit among and the creations of a local artist while they sip on herbal tea.

Our Moroccan poached eggs are presented on a bountiful bed of wilted spinach, red cumin lentils and tomato relish that tops a thick cut of toasted rye sourdough. The plate of the ‘Vegetarians do it Better’ breakfast is a palette of poached eggs and grilled tomato with slices of avocado, roasted capsicum and balsamic mushrooms served beside toasted sourdough and rocket salad. The only remains of the breakfast are ribbons of yolk swiped across the plate and crumbs along the Sunday paper. The multiplicities of wonderful personalities who come here are as brilliant and interesting as the as the café itself.